The Espalier

L'Espalier is one of the oldest true fine dining establishments in Boston. Having dined here many times throughout the years, I always enjoy coming back for another food journey. The menu changes often enough, so you won't be repeating courses from previous visits. Our last visit was excellent. We decided to choose the Tasting Journey, which was outstanding and we paired it with cocktails which were also great. From the amuse-bouches to the desserts - we had a delicious meal and indeed a journey. Caviar, lobster, foie fras, rib-eye, root vegetables, duck consomme, tough to go through all the ingredients that were made stars of their corresponding dishes and were delighful. I will let the pictures speak for themselves. Service was great as well, and the pacing of the courses was timely and appropriate. Overall, another outstanding visit at L'Espalier.

It was in L'Espalier's dining room that I initially fell in love with my wife and, although the food was always great here and the service was impeccable, L'Espalier will be remembered by us as more than a mere restaurant. During my 20s, Chef McClelland's grand tastings were a true special occasion meal - one that I would budget for and look forward to for months. That this historic 40-year-old restaurant sadly and suddenly closed on January 12th of this year has been difficult for me to process - it feels like a tragedy on the level of losing a close friend. Unfortunately, the writing was on the wall. During what would be my final visit to L'Espalier this past summer in a bulky rental car, I was shocked to discover they no longer offered valet parking - something they had always done theretofore. Typical of L'Espalier, the restaurant went out of their way to provide special parking accommodations to me after explaining that, in these times of rideshare, no one drives to their restaurant anymore. Given the grayer demographic that L'Espalier attracted, this should have been a sign to me that the end was near. What should have nailed it for me was not receiving a coconut macaroon as I exited the restaurant - a plastic-wrapped fresh departure pastry that I had grown accustomed to leaving with each time I had visited L'Espalier. In fact, no one was manning the Maître d' station when I left the restaurant. L'Espalier introduced me to so many "firsts" and influenced my dining vocabulary and sensibilities to the point that it became the quintessential French fine dining experience that I measure all others against. Even at the end, I was supremely delighted by McClelland's "Roasted Squab and Liver Vinaigrette," which bore strong nutty flavors of pine and acorn, yet did not feel out of place as a featured dish in a summer degustation. It was one of the best things I ate in 2018 as well as a dish that perfectly reflected the aesthetic sensibilities of L'Espalier's kitchen with its luxuriously decorative plating worthy of the exorbitant Back Bay rent-hikes that forced L'Espalier's closure. The "Grand Fromage" cheese course was always excellent and possibly the aspect of dinner I would look forward to the most at L'Espalier. In fact, I would argue that Chef McClelland and fromager Matthew Helvitz's meticulously curated cheese courses are unrivaled by any others I've had here in the U.S. During each tasting, their cheese course would consist of: 1) a soft cheese selection consisting of anything from wrinkled goat cheese to a camembert, 2) an aged, natural rind cheese, typically sweet and nutty, 3) a stinky, complex washed-rind cheese like an Époisses or appenzeller, and 4) a blue cheese, typically rich and pungent. The best thing I ever ate at L'Espalier? In late summer 2007, I was served a dish with lobster, Chatham squid, and pickled eggplant in a tomato broth that I can still remember every bite of. Adieu, L'Espalier.

Boston doesn't have a Michelin Guide and if it did, L'Espalier is the sort of restaurant to easily grab a star. Housed in an inconspicuous location right near the entrance to the Mandarin Oriental on Boylston, it would be easy to pass this everyday with little thought. Of course, L'Espalier is built on a reputation and advertising is not a necessary component for an establishment of this caliber. I initially became interested after looking more into France's cuisine outposts here in Boston and L'Espalier's experience took the cake according to countless other reviewers. L'Espalier is a full service dining experience, meaning everything from the moment you step in the door to the moment you leave, every minute is a curated part of this food journey. Upon entrance, you'll take an elevator up to the restaurant where, depending on the time or season, you'll be sat in one of the restaurant's styled and themed upper scale dining rooms. Service is immediate and there's never a moment of waiting. The server was knowledgeable alongside the server's assistant who both showed the expertise and professionalism required for a position like this. Prix-fix is the recommendation here and the restaurant suggests it for the entire table should one person get it to ensure a streamlined experience. From perfectly cooked meats to cheeses that serve to compliment every course of this meal, everything here about the food is as good as it possibly can get. Everything here about the experience is memorable and leaves a lasting impression of a meal that is not in any way unimaginable or regular. Such a dining experience is certainly not cheap and L'Espalier is a lunch or dinner to remember for a lifetime. Should you decide to go, make it a special occasion and dress the part. Your experience will be unparalleled.

Every course is intriguing in its combination of ingredients and flavors. The table is recommended to have the same menu, so we opted for the 5 course one. Just one favourite after another, whenever a dish is presented.... yeap, that good. Portion right for me, which means not sufficient for most, so if you eat a lot, go for a larger tasting menu. Will come back again. Amazing food and service!